Day 23: Hospitality in the Highlands

Start: Drumnadrochit

End: Bught Park campsite, Inverness

Distance: 19 miles

Drumnadrochit was alive with tourists by the time I'd packed up and left camp. Shops and cafes all had worked the Loch Ness monster into their branding. Signs advertised boat trips that offered a "deep scan" service, in search of the monster. I hurried along wanting to get away from the crowds and chaos. The path ascended very steeply out of town, potentially the steepest incline on the route so far. I climbed high above Loch Ness and gaps in the trees revealed views of the beautiful, calm Loch.

The trail continued twisting and turning through woodland for 3 hours, the route was carpeted in spongy moss and a variety of species of mushrooms were thriving. I was beginning to grow hungry when up ahead I saw a sign next to a gate saying "Real tea" and "Granny Julia's famous homemade lemon cake". I thought this was a mirage, the stretch had been so remote and I hadn't seen a single person, how would there be cake and tea here? I continued along and further colourful wooden signs lined the path; "Hot chocolate", "Soups", "Traditional Highland lunch". Eventually I reached a clearing in the woodland with a series of picnic benches, but it was deserted. There was a bell on a fence with a sign saying "Please ring to order food" and a small cottage, mostly hidden in the trees. I wasn't hopeful that I'd get a response but it was a long tiring day, so I thought it was worth a try. I rang the bell and almost instantly a man with a huge white beard, rosy cheeks and a beaming smile appeared from the cottage. He called over in a thick Highland accent, "After some food are you lass?" He came over to the fence and chatted with me about where I'd walked from, he looked like a Scottish Santa and was so friendly and welcoming. He said "The Mrs will fix you up a traditional Highland lunch, you make yourself at home on the benches". The menu was simple he simply asked "Meat or veggie", I opted for meat in an attempt to boost my protein for the final stretch. As I waited he bought over a huge pot of lemon and honey tea, telling me "We've been here since 1999, open everyday, no matter the weather, to help out types like you". I was simply blown away by the hospitality and couldn't quite believe what I'd stumbled across. He bought me out a bowl of homemade oxtail soup, some salad, cheese and oatcakes. The soup was comforting and tasted so fresh, he later told me all the ingredients are sourced locally. Following this, he bought out a huge slice of lemon cake, made by his wife. As he placed it down he said, "You get an extra big slice because you've made my day with that smile!" I polished off everything and really felt replenished for the afternoon ahead. As he came to collect my plates he exclaimed, "Well for a wee little lass, you can sure eat!" He placed a handwritten note and bill on the table, pinned down with a packet of fruit pastels, it read "Good luck with the rest of your adventure. £10 please" Of all the serendipitous encounters I have had on these adventures, this was my new favourite. I can't say enough about the hospitality of the people in the Highlands, they go above and beyond to welcome you and make sure to brighten your day.

The afternoon was wonderful. The weather brightened up and the sun illuminated the purple heather and cast shadows on the peaks in the distance. I slowed my pace to appreciate the scenery, knowing that not too far ahead the trail would run out. Small birds danced between the heather and a buzzard soared above, almost guiding me to Inverness. Today's route veered significantly inland, away from Loch Ness so the scenery felt different. The final stretch entered dense woodland and the path led right out to the suburbs of Inverness. Usually there's a smooth transition from rural to urban. Houses gradually start to appear, minor roads with the odd car come into view. But here as soon as I stepped out of the woodland the surroundings were instantly urban. The muddy ground lined with pine needles substituted for tarmac and concrete surfaces. The sounds of trees swaying in the wind drowned out by the chorus of car engines and power tools at a building site. The warm earthy smell of pine forest replaced by the hot breath of car exhaust fumes. I turned back to the forest and stared wistfully, part of me wanting to return to where I felt most at home. But the adventure was coming to an end. I held onto the fact that although the physical landscape and the trail faded behind me, the potency of my memories would take longer to fade. I headed through the outskirts of Inverness where I found a campsite to stay for the night. I have only 1 mile left of the official trail which I'll complete in the morning before rewarding myself with a big mug of tea and a breakfast. Today was another delightful day in the Highlands, delivering exactly what I had come here for. Scenery, hospitality and adventure - with the added bonus of good weather! Although I'm a little sad that the best part of the trail is behind me, I was looking forward to getting to the end marker tomorrow and exploring Inverness.