Day 4: Thank you Tanzania

The final descent was around 10km to the gate. Before we set out the ranger approached us asking if we wanted to take the jeep rather than walk. Anthony laughed saying "She won't allow us to do that!" as he looked at me for confirmation. He was right as I replied, "Let's finish this properly, we've got this far" as he nodded approvingly. We walked through the forest as monkeys and baboons went about their daily routines. The route was caked with mud from the recent rain and we laughed together as we slid around.

On the route to the gate I asked Saidi if to save the fuss I could simply give him the tip and he distribute it to the other boys, but he had other more extravagant ideas which at this point didn’t faze me. “We will do a full ceremony simba, the bros will appreciate the tips directly from your hand and I will do a speech about my dream team and about our duck” he beamed proudly as I laughed and reluctantly agreed, not having the heart to take away other potential speech opportunity from him . “This is always the best part, the best moments, maximum happiness, maximum smiles boss – you'll see. Let's have the happy tears!”

Once we arrived at the gate, I thanked and tipped our ranger and ate snacks with Ramaa and Nasibu while my guides processed the final paperwork in the office. Once they return we gathered around and began the final "ceremony." Saidi initially spoke about his team, addressing each member - outlining their strength, praising them individually and affectionately punching their chests as they beamed proudly. I took over, explaining how much of a pleasure it had been to return to Tanzania and climb another mountain with this perfect team. I tipped each member individually as we shared laughter and jokes and I thanked each of them with a big hug.

Saidi turned to me and burst into another speech expressing gratitude towards me, as I shook my head and hid my face into Ramaa's arm. Over the last months I have recommended this team to people I have met across my travels, empowering them to begin working independently without the large corporations taking a significant cut of their income. "You have shown us huge love and we can only hope that we have returned that to you" he smiled as I pressed my head into Ramaa's arm as I began to get emotional. Saidi continued "We know how strong and brave you are and you will go on to do many more challenges and collect many more certificates. Just know that if ever you doubt yourself your Tanzanian brothers will always be behind you." At this point I could no longer contain my emotion, a combination of his words, the sleep deprivation, the physical exhaustion and knowing that completing Meru had consolidated my goal of climbing the 1st, 2nd and 5th highest summits of Africa. It seems to be that the dramatic speech only concludes when he’s successfully induced tears. I laughed and cried simultaneously, overwhelmed by my own emotions saying “you’ve done it again” as this is exactly the state I was in following Kilimanjaro.

They handed me an envelope with my certificate inside, a handwritten message read, “We love you duck, let this change your life in a positive way." which set me off even more. “You have 2 certificates from Tanzania now” Anthony exclaimed confirming his statement with the names and exact heights of the mountains I’d climbed. I thanked them explaining that I wouldn’t have the certificates without this team as they beamed proudly. “We help boss but the secret lies in your body and your mind” Saidi said while patting my head, “Dont be shy to the truth simba, you will get all the certificates of the world boss, I feel it!” Ramaa and Nasibu gave me a t-shirt with a map of Mount Meru on, a gift from the whole team. They pulled it over my head and cheered when it fit well. We piled into the jeep and they spread their coats out on the seats, gesturing for me to curl up and rest. "Let's go back to town Amy, it's a big night - Simba f.c are playing and we need the support of our duck, we'll find you a football shirt - hakuna matata, let's have more fun" Saidi laughed cheerfully. I fell asleep peacefully on my coat pile to the sound of laughter and excitable Swahili conversations.

The dream team behind the adventure: Meet "The Kili/Meru bros"

Saidi (Lead guide): Head of motivational speeches and morale

He carries the weight of responsibility of a lead guide with ease, consistently showing kind leadership to his team and having total command of the whole route. Always filling the day with stories, games and jokes - allowing high-altitude mountain trekking to feel lighter. He’s permanently alert and attentive, offering guidance through the physical challenges, and frequently checking on my spirit and health. If you’re doubting yourself ascending a steep icy slope, feeling nauseous and sleep deprived he will be there keeping you safe and drawing upon his never-ending repertoire of motivational phrases and pep talks, ensuring you reach the potential you weren't even sure you had. He’s the steady heartbeat beneath the adventure (metaphorically and physically - his resting heart rate remains at 50bpm at 4000m above the sea level!). Beginning as a porter carrying up to 35kg up and down Kilimanjaro, Saidi has progressed to a lead guide and speaks 5 languages fluently to maximise his client base. When he's not climbing mountains or on safari trip, he supports his mum and siblings by growing maize and beans in the village he grew up in and he owns around 50 goats to support with grazing the land.

Anthony (Assistant guide): Head of games and altitude press up champion

Anthony is an amazing guide, showing persistent care and attention to all your needs. He is ridiculously strong, able to carry heavy weight while still assisting clients with ease. He has supported many rescues on Kilimanjaro, carrying clients down the mountain and being in his presence in a challenging environment makes you feel extremely safe. He has a great sense of humour, constantly teasing his team mates and his competitive nature means he's always organising games and exercise challenges, which is incredible fun. Anthony spent his early childhood years as part of the Masai tribe, before his parents decided to leave for town to allow Anthony to receive an education. Progressing from a porter to a guide, Anthony has been climbing Kilimanjaro and Meru for around 10 years. When he's not on the mountain he enjoys playing pool table and watching football.

Ramaa (Porter and waiter): "African alarm clock" and head of tea delivery

Ramaa is the king of 5 star mountain service. Whether he's preparing tea, piling food onto your plate or filling your water bottles, every task is completed with great care and pride. Ramaa can make the earliest of wake up calls manageable with his gentle coaxing to come to breakfast and tea deliveries. He frequently offers kindness from his little acts like friendly motivational arm punches and supportive comments. His warm smile when you return to camp and relaxed nature help you settle into the rhythm of the mountain. Ramaa grew up with Saidi and their farms are adjacent to each other. Saidi supported him to move to town, funding his college courses to learn both English and French. Ramaa is in the process of becoming a mountain guide and commits his spare time to playing cards, pool table or perfecting his language skills for his future guiding career. Both him and Saidi donate a significant amount of their tips to their local village, buying essential items for families and delivering to their homes following each successful trip.

Nasibu (Chef): "World's best stomach engineer" and master of carrying eggs up rocky slopes

He’s the coolest chef in the world. Whether he’s crouched in a tent chopping onions or cracking jokes as he’s scrambling up a rock face with pans hanging from his pack, clutching a bottle of oil and tray of eggs – he is undoubtedly iconic. On both Kili and Meru he never failed to prepare nourishing and restorative meals that bring fresh life to tired legs and deliver warmth to cold bones. His menus are incredibly well-planned factoring in nutrition for recovery and altitude while delivering comfort in challenging environments. All of this he does seemingly effortlessly with a wide smile and contagious laugh. He's passionate about ensuring his clients and team mates enjoy his food and believes the correct fuel is the secret behind a successful summit. His summit day snacks, his sweet ginger tea, the warming soups and extensive lunch boxes are unmatched. He works with porters who don't own sleeping bags or waterproofs and works on the mantra of "If you have a full happy belly - you can face anything, this is your sleeping bag and your waterproof!"

(Left to right: Anthony, Ramaa, me, Nasibu, Saidi)

For me Kilimanjaro was more than a trek and Mount Meru proved to be exactly the same. Both were lessons in perseverance, humility, determination and the power of a strong community in the wild. I came to Tanzania for the 1st and 5th highest summits in Africa but left with something much more lasting than the breathless, wind blasted, brutally cold 5 minutes on a summit will ever deliver. It left me with a deeper sense what it really means to climb a mountain, achieve a physical challenge or undertake an adventure and showed me the value in the people you’re climbing with. It left me with confidence, lifelong friendships and memories.

Spending time with this team has taught me invaluable lessons. Mostly the importance of enjoying the present, don’t pin everything on the on the summit alone. If I am brutally honest it is ultimately 5-10 minutes of wind blasted, cold discomfort perched awkwardly on a sharp icy rock awaiting profound thoughts or for an overwhelming sense of achievement to rush in while in reality you are questioning when the feeling will return to your fingers or when you'll be able return to an acceptable level of oxygen. The little moments accumulate into something beautiful and memorable; the exchanging of stories, the language lessons, the laughter, the games, the shared purpose and the constant acts of kindness. The smallest event could occur and one of my team would exclaim "Olala what a moment" and I was constantly reminded to "make memories" and have "maximum smiles, maximum happiness." It doesn’t need to just be a gruelling challenge, it’s inevitable that there’s going to be discomfort but persistent cheerfulness can overshadow that. I will take everything I have learnt from this team to the challenges that lay ahead of me and ensure that I make every moment count and shift the focus from the summit or objective alone to instead the adventure in its entirety. The sunrises, the wildlife, the scenery, the people, the feelings.

My time in East Africa has made future goals feel within my grasp, closing the gap betweeen my ability and aspirations. I'd like to say a huge thank you Tanzania for giving me so much more than 2 summits and ensuring the beauty of the landscape was always matched by the joy of the journey. I would recommend this beautiful country to anyone for mountain climbing, safaris or just to spend time with the lovely people.

Thank you again Tanzania, let's share another adventure one day!

Thank you for supporting my East Africa mountain challenges over the last weeks, I hope you've all enjoyed and taken something away from my stories. Join me for another adventure soon!

Amy xx