Day 5: Acclimatisation at the lava tower

Start: Shira 2 camp

Finish: Barranco Camp

Distance: 6 miles

Elevation gain: 3890m to 3976m via Lava tower at 4630m

Climatic zone: Alpine desert

Today was a very important day for acclimatisation where we would climb to the lava tower which is situated at 4630m above sea level, the same height as the base camp of Kilimanjaro. Saidi was keen for us to gain this height before returning to around 4000m to sleep, he told us this is the day where he "learns the most". He needed to see how our bodies reacted to the altitude gain and ensure he understood our walking style so he was able to detect any early signs of decline on summit night in order to protect our safety. After breakfast we began the slow and steady climb towards the lava tower. The wind was stronger than previous days and the air was cold as the moorland made way for the barrenness of the rocky alpine desert zone. Helicopters flew past which we were told can rescue people from as high as base camp, it always makes me feel a little unnerved when I see this but equally it provides reassurance that there is a rescue plan if things take a turn.

After a 4 hour climb we'd arrived at our high point of the lava tower where we would have lunch and Saidi wanted us to spend a couple of hours resting here to allow our body to adapt to this new height. He'd kindly arranged for the toilet tent to be pitched at the lunch spot as there were limited "flower picking spots" on route and Ramaa and Nasibo had pitched the mess tent to shelter us from the wind for lunch. The lava tower is believed to be the result of a volcanic vent, when molten lava emerged, cooled and hardened leaving behind an impressive tower like structure. Everyone felt a little tired at lunch and it was evident some of the group were experiencing their first taste of the negative effects of altitude. Will, who normally has an impressive appetite, pushed his food around his plate before rushing off to the toilet to vomit. As soon as the guides witnessed this they jumped to attention, reassuring us that this was a normal response to the change in altitude and we were not to worry. Life on a mountain is more intensely lived, everything becomes amplified. The cold, the altitude and the relentless inclines become selection pressures with much more immediate consequences than at sea level. These hostile environments demand your physiology and your fitness to step up in order to meet their challenges if you wish to reap the rewards of standing on a summit. Awareness and interest in life beyond the mountain diminishes and you focus more on the immediate hierarchy of needs – warmth, shelter, food and water.

Following lunch Joey carried Will's pack and walked closely to him, keeping an eye on his every movement while Anton and Saidi sang to lift morale. Luckily my body had coped well with 4600m and I didn't experience any headache or nausea, but it was clear that the every movement was requiring more energy. The descent to camp was rocky and steep but passed quickly as I chatted with George about our previous travels and adventure aspirations. Barranco camp is a stunning location, situated at the base of the Barranco wall with clear views of the ever nearing summit. Due to the long day, Saidi told us we didn't need to complete any further acclimatisation but asked if I would lead a stretching session to prevent any muscle stiffness. I was more than happy to offer this, the team and the guides gathered around as the sun descended below the horizon. We stretched and laughed as George and Will hopped around struggling to balance in their weary hypoxic states. It was not only one of the most fun sessions I've led but also by far the highest above sea level! Saidi thanked me and we drank tea together as he showed me photos of his village and his most recent safari adventure. By dinner the team had picked by up and everyone's oxygen levels and resting pulses were at safe levels, the events of the day were fully documented in the all important orange folder. After we'd eaten we played a chaotic game of Irish snap, layered up in all our thick layers before admiring the star studded sky and heading to bed. Today was my favourite day so far, a perfect mix of incredible scenery, challenging climbs, fun and laughter. I felt happy that I'd avoided any negative effects of altitude so far and this gave me a quiet confidence for the days that lay ahead.