Day 8: Rest and acclimatisation

Start: Dingboche

End: Dingboche

Finishing altitude: 4360m

Today marks our first full acclimatisation day, where we will climb to a high ridge overlooking Dingboche, then return to exactly the same altitude to sleep. Bikash allowed us an extra half an hour in bed and as we’d be sleeping in the same location, we didn’t have the laborious tasks of putting our sleeping bags away and organising gear. It almost felt like we were on holiday! Following breakfast, we left the teahouse and began walking slowly towards the base of the ridge. The morning was noticeably colder than previous days as an icy wind swept through the valley. Everyone was bundled up in all their layers to protect from the elements and Bikash danced around to stay warm. The ascent involved a series of steep switch backs, with each change in direction marked with a Buddhist chorten decorated in colourful prayer flags. We gazed up towards the top of the ridge, wondering how high we were going. Bikash signaled up ahead to a high point where we were heading and was met with a sharp intake of breath and a few “Really, all the way up there?” responses. Bikash laughed and brushed off the concerns by saying, “No problems, just a few 5 minutes away!” I was excited for the challenge, not only for the view at the top but also just to get moving as this would warm me up.

Bikash led the climb at the front, attentively turning his head around frequently to check everyone was coping. Sunam stayed at the back of the group carrying a large pack containing a hyperbaric bag used for emergency altitude sickness treatment and slung over his shoulder he carried the most extensive first aid kit I’ve ever seen. This was a reminder that despite the extra 30 minutes sleep, this indeed was far from a holiday. Sunam is a pleasure to hike with; he’s friendly, kind and unassuming. He has a small frame but carried all this gear with ease and floated effortlessly up the ridge, hopping over the large boulders and remaining perfectly stable when walking over patches of thick ice. If any member of the team faced an obstacle on the route such as difficulty maneuvering over large boulders, loose scree or ice, he would appear seemingly out of nowhere and politely assist them. I later learnt that he has ascended Everest 5 times as part of Sherpa team two, the team that fix the ladders and transport oxygen and tents for clients. If you want to progress to Sherpa team one, which involves assisting clients directly on their climb, you must first train by supporting clients on a winter base camp hike – which is what Sunam was aiming towards. I felt incredibly lucky and safe to be in the hands of such experienced climbers and guides, it certainly alleviates any potential worries.

The ridge climb continued for a couple of hours, during the latter stages the sun finally emerged above the snowy peaks and provided a comforting warmth that cut through the icy air. The climb was energy sapping, as the air grew thinner the further we progressed and breathing became a greater challenge. Bikash encouraged everyone saying, “The top is just around a few corners” and when we stopped for a rest, he would pass each person their water bottles from their packs if they weren’t already drinking. We eventually made it to the top and we were instantly rewarded with a panoramic view revealing the high peaks of Nuptse, Lhotse, Chukung Peak and Imja Tse. Massive glaciers draped beneath cliffs that soar up to 3,500m in this dramatic valley. We took our time taking in the breathtaking view, capturing photos and most importantly breathing. I’d already worked my way through 2 litres of water throughout the morning, in an attempt to prevent any headaches, but as a result I needed the toilet, which is not ideal on a high exposed ridge in sub-zero temperatures. Dan searched for a decently sized rock that I could hide behind, this had become his unofficial job any time we stopped to rest. After we’d all recovered from the climb, we began the descent. We moved quickly on the way down, excited by the prospect of a warm fire, lunch and an afternoon of rest. On the way down we spotted a group of Himalayan vultures, potentially around 6 or 7 of them, swooping elegantly around the nearby peaks. There must have been a carcass down in the valley by the river which had attracted them. I enjoyed watching them fly above me and witnessing their wide wing span and their neck ruff of thick white feathers.

We made it to the base of the ridge and returned to our teahouse where Hom greeted us with a wide smile, clutching a flask full of warm juice that he poured generously into our mugs. He then served us plates of potatoes, pasta, eggs and rice which we devoured while he shoveled more frozen yak dung onto the fire to keep us warm. We all retired to our rooms for afternoon naps and rest. I couldn’t sleep but rested on the bed in my sleeping bag watching the yaks peacefully graze right outside my window. Later in the afternoon, we returned to the fire for tea and biscuits while our guides and porters played cards with each other. Mr Diamox who we became acquainted with yesterday, checked his oximeter in the corner of the dining room and bombarded his guides with questions about the weather conditions and safety of the route in winter. I glanced across to Dan who shook his head and laughed. Remaining at the same altitude for two consecutive nights had certainly helped us adapt and I had managed to avoid any headaches across the day. But tomorrow we would commence climbing higher again, a tough day lay ahead with steep inclines that would push us closer to 5000m. But right now, all that mattered was dinner and sleep. These challenges were tomorrow’s problem.