Day 12: End of phase 1

Start: Bodfari

End: Prestatyn

Distance: 12 miles

I woke up early this morning, eager to complete my final 12 mile stretch to Prestatyn, which would mark the completion of my Welsh coast to coast adventure. My usual routine is to study my map and guidebook the night before, so I know what lays ahead of me. But last night I struggled to both form and read sentences in my tired state, which meant the route today would be a surprise. Naively I envisaged a gentle grassy descent to the sea, an easy final stretch. I was entirely wrong! There were yet more hills. Although they weren't as steep as yesterday, psychologically they felt worse as I had settled for an absence of hills. I began at 7am and it was warm. Within half an hour a layer of sweat had already formed where my pack pressed against my back. I could see the sea and the town of Prestatyn the whole route, which served as motivation as everytime I looked up I was edging that bit closer.

The route was varied, following farm tracks, fields, tree lined ascents and country roads. The scenery was not as dramatic as previous days but very typical of the Welsh countryside. As it was such a clear day I could see Snowdon to the West, which a local man walking his dog pointed out to me. Come late morning Prestatyn was in touching distance, but the route seemed to be veering to the East and ascending another hill. I could easily just follow these lovely, flat tarmac pavements and I'd be in town. I checked the map and the route did indeed climb Prestatyn hill to then descend into town. It felt like such an unnecessary addition to the route, as the hill looked steep and there was barely any flat ground before it began the descent. Part of me considered ignoring this hill and just taking the easy route into town. But the stubborn, disciplined, frankly annoying side of my brain told me to get on with it and climb the hill. "You've come this far, finish this off properly!" So I pushed up the hill, admired the view of the sea and then headed down into Prestatyn where the route concluded. The town was a cheerful seaside resort full of holiday makers enjoying the sun. Although it's not somewhere I'd chose to return to, wherever a trail ends always becomes a meaningful place. A sense of place is developed transitioning the location from merely a distant geographical location to a place that you will be forever connected to. When you scan maps in the future, that single place name has the power to evoke a multitude of feelings and nostalgic smiles. As I headed to the seafront I saw a man on the other side of the road, wearing a large pack and heading south. I waved and smiled, as if I was greeting an old friend! It was obvious to me with the way he looked that he was on day 1 of his adventure, completing to route from North to South. He crossed the road and we chatted. He congratulated me for finishing and in return I wished him luck for the coming days. He asked me questions about campsites, toughest sections, easiest sections and places to resupply. I gave him my guidebook as I'd no longer need this and I'd already marked on the map all the places to camp. This would be more useful to him at this stage and I was happy to lighten my load.

I took the train to Carlisle and luckily had a smooth journey, not impeded by the rail strikes. Here I will rest up, refuel and review my plan for phase 2. Following a long warm shower, I basked in the comfort of clean sheets with my feet finally released from my boots. I wriggled around, appreciating the mattress, the pillows, the stable roof above my head. Sprawled out surrounded by energy dense snacks, a ritual I follow every time I get treated to a night inside which I refer to as a “bed picnic”. Staring blankly ahead at an awkwardly positioned TV, until I inevitably lose the battle with my heavy eyelids and succumb to an afternoon nap. 

Phase 1 is complete. A journey of 177 miles taking me from the Severn Estuary to the North Wales coast. Although my trail miles stand at 177, I estimate I have covered closer to 200 miles, given deviations to shops, pubs and campsites. I've passed through the Wye Valley, the Black Mountains, the Shropshire hills and the Clwydian Range. Through rain, wind, sun and everything in between. I am proud of this accomplishment but mostly I am ready for a carbohydrate based feast and a long sleep in a bed.