Day 12: Climb to the best campsite in the world

Today's objective was to climb to base camp, situated at 3500m on the slopes of Acatenango volcano. I felt well rested in the morning and ready to tackle the final stage of my challenge. Diego briefed us on the route before we set off from the town of La Soledad. The route would pass through a variety of landscapes as we gained altitude. Beginning with corn field just beyond the town, traversing bamboo clad slopes, switchbacks through the cloud forest before finally reaching pine forest and then camp. It would be 6 hours of continuous climbing. We began walking through the cornfields on a gradual incline which was helpful as my body adjusted to the heat and humidity. Following this, the route became significantly more challenging, Diego warned that the next series of steps would "even make Amy go quiet!" I feel very lucky to have really not felt the altitude on this trip, no symptoms of altitude sickness and also I haven't felt it significantly impacting my breathing on the climbs - so it hadn't impeded my ability to endlessly chat! These steps however were brutal and actually succeeded in keeping me quiet for a brief time. Not only were they steep, they were also designed for someone with twice my leg length and the sections in between the steps were lined with thick sand and fine pebbles. I remained quiet, put my head down and pushed through what felt like an endless series of steps until I reached the top.

Following this we reached the cloud forest, which due to the dense vegetation created shade, which gave some relief from the intense sun. The route remained steep but tree roots and rocks protruded from the soil, helping it be a little less slippy. My energy levels felt good and I enjoyed getting into a comfortable rhythm, climbing high above the clouds. A couple of the group were still suffering from the altitude and upset stomachs so remained at a slow pace with Beanie as I walked ahead with Diego. We told each other stories from our previous hikes and I hysterically laughed at some of his volcano related disasters he'd had as a naive 20 something year old.

The route continued to climb until the cloud forest smoothly transitioned into pine forest, as the air grew both thinner and colder. Pine needles carpeted the route and the incline became slightly more forgiving. After 6 hours of uphill climbing we reached a narrow stretch of flat land that would accommodate only a few tents. This was the most remarkable place to camp. Below was a sea of fluffy white clouds drifting calmly across the valley, ahead the ferocious Fuego volcano stood proudly dominating the landscape and Agua volcano peacefully protruded from the clouds, with the verdant cloud forest cascading down it's slopes. I was mesmorised. I couldn't believe I'd be sleeping here! All I knew was the 6 hours uphill climbing were worth it. Diego called over, "Amy just wait until later when the shows starts!" He was referring to the ever active Fuego. I'd seen this volcano erupt from the distant vantage point of other summits, but now the crater was almost in touching distance. I positioned my camping chair opposite the volcano, feeling cosy next to a warm fire and patiently waited.

It wasn't long until I heard a huge explosive sound that reverberated across the valley, shaking the ground. I held onto the sides of my camping chair, giggling in amazement and excitement. Following this sound, a huge cloud of ash ascended high above the crater of Fuego, it's shape becoming distorted in the wind. Boulders and rocks were angrily ejected out of the crater with a powerful force, crashing down the steep slopes disturbing layers of ash as they travelled. I have never witnessed anything like this. It was powerful and surreal and wonderful. I gazed ahead, fixated on the crater as a cloud of ash and gases continued to emerge and grow. I ate dinner, chatted and laughed before heading for an early night. Tomorrow was a double summit day, one for the sunrise and one for the sunset. I lay in my tent desperately hoping I'd get some sleep ahead of these challenges, but I couldn't help but peek my head out everytime I felt the ground shake and heard the roar of an eruption. I've slept in some interesting places on my adventures - in caves, in snow holes, in hammocks in the jungle. But opposite an active volcano that frequently erupts and makes the ground beneath me shake, this has got to be the strangest and therefore the best place I've ever slept. Or attempted to sleep.