Day 14: The final descent

I tossed and turned in the early hours of the morning listening to the all too familiar sound of raindrops on canvas. A gentle but persistent sound. Where was I? Wales? Scotland maybe? I've been here many times before snuggled in the dry safe haven of my sleeping bag, avoiding the elements. But as I fully woke up, I realised where I was and I felt confused. It hasn't rained here yet, it barely rains during this season in Guatemala - surely the rain hasn't followed me here? I poked my head out my tent and to my surprise the sound was not rain but a shower of ash. Up ahead Fuego emitted a huge ash cloud, accompanied with flashes of lava that flowed in channels down the slopes. Over night the wind had changed direction, blowing the ash cloud over our campsite. I stuck my hand out and collected some specks of ash - fine, jet black particles. I thought of their journey, orginating from the rocks deep underground, propelled by the release of pressure through the vent to be ejected out of the crater before floating gracefully in the wind to arrive in my hand. I was too excited to get any more sleep so crept around camp, finding myself a chair where I watched the eruptions with the perfect backdrop of a clear night's sky, letting the ash accumulate in my hair.

Eventually the sun began to rise and everyone sleepily emerged from their tents. I'd started a fire using the remaining wood with tissues soaked in hand sanitiser as make-shift fire starters. Beanie made us breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast with a selection of fruits, granola and yoghurt. I drank tea and soaked in the view, knowing it was important to remember this special place before I began the descent. The sun rose from behind the slopes of Agua volcano, illuminating the grey ash cloud as the volcano dogs calmly looked out to the horizon. This place was magical.

After breakfast we began the descent. The route would only take 2 hours to get back to town, but the quick time only meant one thing. A steep descent. Diego apologised there wasn't a "slide" available on this section but it was still fun, grinning at me saying "we can race!" Chris shook his head, he was fully over volcanoes at this point and desperately just wanted to get down while keeping all his limbs intact. The route was fun, although it was impossible not to skid, it was actually easier to go faster and run a little. If you slow down and remain cautious you slide uncontrollably, especially on the corners. I copied Diego's style, chasing after him down the volcano - learning to embrace the sliding and enjoy the process. I couldn't help but smile. We laughed and chatted, shouting to each other over the sound of sliding pebbles. We transitioned from pine forest to cloud forest and eventually back into the cornfields. Diego interrupted my daily "Guatemalan slang lesson" to tell me "30 minutes to the bus, then we get lunch, a shower and a bed!" I was excited. I was caked in alternate layers of sweat, dust and ash that would need multiple showers if not a power hose to remove! We returned to the bus and waited for the others. I felt elated that I'd made it up and down all 7 summits successfully, miraculously avoiding injury or illness and most importantly I'd had the time of my life! The others returned, Chris looked at me and sighed with relief and I called over "Is that a smile Chris?" He responded, "That's was a death trap. River cruise for me next year, I'm over volcanoes!" His elbows and knees were grazed and face smeared in ash. We piled onto the bus and headed for lunch before a well earned shower.

We ate lunch in Antigua, in a place owned by a man from Manchester who had lived in Guatemala for 16 years. I thought it odd that the tables had HP brown sauce on them, but now it made sense. "Do I hear British accents?" he called over. He'd travelled out here as a student and had been captivated by the country, how welcoming and friendly the people are, the scenery and the weather. He moved out here, learning Spanish as he went and said he couldn't imagine a life back in the UK. His Manchester accent was apparent but had been influenced with American and Spanish. He hadn't lost his British ability to talk about the weather, a skill ingrained in any Brit, as we discussed how cold it had been back home. I ate a huge burger with salad and chips washed down with Hibiscus juice, feeling extremely hungry after all the effort I exerted. My appetite had remained high the whole trip luckily, but returning to a lower altitude intensified my hunger. Following lunch we returned to the hotel and I had the longest, most satisfying shower of my life - removing the dust and ash that had accumulated from my time on the volcano slopes. I collapsed on the bed, basking in the clean sheets and smiling to myself.

I had an afternoon and an evening to relax in Antigua, organise myself for the flight and share a final dinner and drinks with my volcano companions. If I'm completely honest I didn't know what to expect from this adventure, having booked it completely spontaneously back in October with minimal research. I have an extensive list of challenges I aspire to complete and climbing volcanoes in Guatemala did not feature on my list. I somehow had stumbled across the idea, felt instantly compelled and booked with very little thought or hestitation. Purely being guided by that voice in my head that says, "You should do that!" And I have no doubt in saying it's one of the best decisions I have ever made! A ridiculous decision but one that I am grateful I made. There's the obvious adventure aspirations of the Inca trail, Everest base camp, Kilimamjaro, Annapurna circuit - some of which I've achieved and some that lay ahead of me. But these popular routes have become overpopulated and are increasingly being spoilt due to the sheer mass of travellers dominating the landscapes. But here in Guatemala, we have been the only group on every volcano - allowing it to remain special and preserved. I've climbed high above the clouds to watch sunrises, stood on the roof of Central America, watched hummingbirds dart through the cloud forest and witnessed active volcanoes ejecting lava and ash. I've laughed and screamed simultaneously, I've slid down steep slopes and pushed myself into those blank spaces beyond my comfort zone. Guatemala is a wonderful country that I would encourage anyone to visit; it's vibrancy, the Mayan culture, the incredible cuisine, the kind outgoing people and the rich biodiversity. This trip has consolidated many things for me; I'll continue to seek wild corners of the world to explore, I'll continue to undertake challenges that simultaneously push and reward me and I'll continue to unleash and embrace my adventurous spirit!

Thank you Guatemala! Xx

As always thank you for anyone who followed my journey, I hope my stories and photos helped brighten up a cold rainy January back home. Thank you for the encouragement, the messages and the support - it helps immensely. I'll be back soon but for now I'll mostly be attempting to remove ash from all my clothes, eating lots of food and laying horizontal!

See you soon!

Amy xx