Day 14: Rainy miles along Hadrian's Wall

Start: Carlisle

End: Gilsland

Distance: 19 miles

It was a rainy morning in Carlisle and today's task was to cover a large chunk of miles, however they'd mostly be flat. I've decided to finish this section a day early to allow a full day's rest on Wednesday, before the long journey up to Scotland. I'll be joined by Sam over these next days for the walk onto Newcastle. The morning's miles followed the River Eden and were flat and gentle, the path was busy with dog walkers and runners. It then began to cut through farmer's fields where sheep grazed.

The route was relatively remote besides a few small settlements but fortunately we stumbled upon an honesty shop in a small village of Newton. There was a box for payment and all the treats you could possibly imagine. A kettle for tea, a fridge with milk, a microwave to heat up soups, a freezer stocked with ready meals, ice creams and all kinds of snacks. I was very excited as I scanned all the options! It was by far the best provision for walkers I have ever come across. I made myself some soup to warm up from the rainy morning and we chatted with a Welsh and Australian couple, also walking the route. Two American women also joined who looked exhausted despite carrying only small bags and said "We've walked so far and there's been nothing!" They'd also come from Carlisle which was only 9 miles away and were clearly expecting the route to be lined with cafes and restaurants. At least this gave them the opportunity to refuel.

The rain continued throughout the day, with the occasional break as the sun broke through the clouds. Most of the afternoon's miles were adjacent to Hadrian’s Wall, where patches were well preserved and accompanied by information signs. There were two further honesty shops on route where we rested and chatted with a man who had walked the route twice already. We had an interesting, varied conversation. From his time working in Angola, to the bears and wolves of the Carpathian mountains, to the price of beer in Iceland. The final miles dragged a little as the rain continued but eventually we made it to a farm where we'd stay. The farmer was really friendly and offered shelter in his barn where we could sleep on hay, to save pitching the tent in a soggy field. Tomorrow will be another long push, but I am motivated by the thought of my first full rest day on Wednesday.