Day 20: Loch Lochy

Start: Gairlochy

End: Laggan Locks

Distance: 12 miles

I slept peacefully by the Loch at my wild camp spot and the sun was shining in the morning, so I felt eager to get going and make the most of this rare Scottish weather. The sky was blue and the white clouds drifted over the mountains, looking like a blanket of fresh snow. I picked up the trail which initially veered away from Loch Lochy on a tree lined trail. I heard rustling in the trees and scanned above me for the source, I saw a rusty red flash as a red squirrel bounded from branch to branch, briefly pausing to stare down at me. I was delighted to see a red squirrel, they are beautiful animals with their iconic bushy tail and pointy ears.

The route then descended to follow the northern shore of the Loch. I rested to eat my second breakfast on a small pebble beach and enjoyed listening to the water gently lapping onto the shore. The route was quiet with only a few cyclists passing by. The path undulated and climbed a gentle slope where woodland dominated and allowed only glimpses down to the water.

Come late morning the work of the timber industry dominated the land. Parts of the slopes had been heavily felled, leaving leaving the land scarred and tall stacks of tree trunks lined the route. It made me think back to the red squirrel in the morning and hoped that there would be further efforts to preserve their habitats. The land around this area was once used as a training ground for Commandos, which given the vastness and proximity to substantial hills, I could understand why. Information signs lined the route covering everything from the geography of the Great Glen to the wildlife that calls this part of the world home. The main animals in this region are red squirrels, pine martins, Scottish crossbills, red deer and osprey.

By late morning I'd completed my miles adjacent to Loch Lochy and arrived in Laggan where I treated to myself to a tea and cake break. Laggan is a sprawling settlement with no clear centre and there were plenty of wild camping options by the shore of Loch Lochy. It was a windy afternoon so I meticulously picked my spot to pitch. A flat patch of comfy soft grass, with a little vegetation for shelter, with the narrow end of my tent facing the wind. The freedom to wild camp legally here in Scotland is something I wish was more widespread across the UK, as long as people respect the land and leave no trace, it is an ideal way to open up opportunities for adventure. After pitching, I headed to The Eagle, a converted Dutch barge that operates as a floating pub, an ideal location to spend a Friday afternoon. Today's route was varied and full of interest, consolidating my love for the Scottish Highlands.