Day 3: The hills of remote Monmouthshire

Start: Monmouth

End: Pandy

Distance: 17 miles

I managed to have a restful night as the rain and wind eased, allowing me to sleep all the way through. The sun was shining in the morning, so I ate breakfast sat out on the grass in front of my tent. A curious duck approached me, in search of food I imagined, so I sprinkled some seeds from my trail mix onto the grass which he seemed to approve of. After I was fueled up, I rejoined the trail and began to complete some miles through the rolling hills of Monmouthshire. The route was remote passing through farmers fields scattered with sheep with only the occasional farm building or cottage. The only human interaction I had for the first couple of hours was an exchange of a smile or wave with farmers in their tractors. I passed through a gate into another field and as I looked up several large cows and one bull stared back at me. The bull was huge and intimidating, obstructing the path, I somehow didn't think he'd be as mild-mannered as the sheep and move out my way. I sighed and began scanning the area for a way round this. It was too early in the morning and I hadn't even had a cup of tea yet, the last thing I needed was to be battling with a testosterone fueled bull. I used my usual cow avoidance manoeuvres, climbing fences and getting thoroughly scratched up by brambles, while laughing to myself at how often I've been in this situation. I made it around the bull unscathed and although it took a little detour, I rejoined the route safely.

Later in the morning, I was passing through a gate and read a sign that said "The church is open..please help yourself to tea or coffee". Free tea! I couldn't believe my luck and went into the church where indeed there was a kettle, tea bags, coffee and squash. There was no one around and it was silent and a little eerie inside. I made my tea and was expecting some kind of catch, maybe someone might spring out, give me a religious talk and try to convert me. But no. A free cup of tea in peace. This unexpected surprise made me feel motivated and ready to take on the next miles, although I was hoping there'd be no more bulls lurking around the corner.

The route continued to meander through the countryside passing through cider orchards and narrow paths through tall wheat plants that came up to my hips. It was peaceful and quiet. Eventually I reached a small village that had a pub where I stopped for lunch and they kindly charged my phone.

After lunch I continued for an hour or so onto Pandy, a small village on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, where I'll camp for the night. The final part of today's route passed through wild flower meadows and was alive with wildlife. Butterflies danced between the flowers, rabbits hopped around, the long grasses rustled as shrews, voles or mice darted away for cover and buzzards soared above me. I lay and rested on the grass in the sun before pitching my tent, feeling the aches in my feet and shoulders slowly ease. It's hard to believe it's only day 3, it feels like I've been out here a lot longer and have adjusted to this lifestyle quickly. I'm enjoying the freedom to roam and explore. To wake up, walk, eat and sleep. Time out here is not simply dictated by minutes, hours, schedules and alarms but expressed through shadows, colours and light. It almost feels possible to relinquish conventional measures of time-keeping and allow my days to become governed by these natural patterns. I wake up when the sun rises, walk and sleep when it gets dark. Up ahead lay the outlines of the foothills of the Black Mountains, that would be tomorrow's challenge.