Day 42: Durdle Door

Start: Ferrybridge, Weymouth

End: Durdle Door

Miles: 15

Total miles: 588

The route from Ferrybridge either heads to Portland to complete a circuit of the Isle or progresses onto Wemouth town. I'd decided against the Isle of Portland circuit when planning my trip, having walked the route before. I only record my miles completed directly on the path, but considering my detours around rivers, fires and to campsites or shops I know my total milage has far exceeded that of Portland. Satisfied with my justifications, I walked into Weymouth in the morning and picked up the promenade, then headed for the train station where my friend Emily would be joining me for the last few days. Similarly to Laura who joined me back in Looe, Emily didn't own much in the way of camping gear. She didn't even know that roll mats existed and when she'd been camping before, she'd slept directly in the ground. Camping doesn't have to be that rough! Laura had passed on the gear she'd borrowed from me and Sam had given her a two man tent. So between us all we'd figured it out. What Emily lacks in camping experience she makes up for in enthusiasm, willingness to come on an adventure and to step out of her comfort zone. Making her a fitting companion for the home stretch. 

This time 6 weeks ago I was on a train to Minehead, with the whole path ahead of me. With that nervous anticipation, excitement and curiosity. Now there's only 40 miles left of familiar terrain between me and home. I know how steep and punishing some of the ascents are, but I've completed 6 weeks of preparation. I associate most of the remaining route with Sunday morning strolls, with a flask of tea and a picnic. I know it will feel significantly more challenging with the weight on my back and with all the miles I have behind me.

After I met Emily we began the walk from Weymouth to Durdle Door. Initially the route was gentle and passed through campsites and the village of Osmington Mills. It was a clear day and the views of the white cliffs up ahead and Portland were stunning. As we approached the end of the day, the hills grew bigger. I had warned Emily that the challenge would really be in the last half an hour to get to camp. The cliff suddenly ascended dramatically on the approach to Durdle Door, making for challenging climbs. I gave Emily a hiking pole to stabilise her, as it's difficult to balance when you're not used to carrying a heavy pack. After the initial ascent, the cliff headed steeply back down. The gradient here is by far the steepest decent not aided with steps on the whole route and is tricky to tackle. Emily's legs were a little shaky, I got her to follow my steps but the momentum took over propelling her too quickly down the hill. She sat down and opted for going down the hill like a slide, her face was a complex mix of terror followed by pure joy as she slid down the hill. The route then repeated this pattern, another sharp climb and steep decent. Unable to stay on her feet on the tough terrain coupled with the weight of her pack pulling her down, Emily returned to her preffered method of descending. Sliding down on her bum, while laughing hysterically. I took her bag off her, slinging it over my shoulder to carry it down to the bottom. This would hopefully make her life a little easier. She used both hiking poles, to propell herself - almost like she was skiing while sitting down. I was uncontrollably laughing too. I was so happy to see that despite the toughness of this section, she was laughing and smiling. She got down the hill, unscathed with the exception of a couple of holes in her leggings. Her method wasn't exactly the textbook way to descend a hill, but she got down and was still smiling. That's all that matters.

The beach at Durdle Door was busy and we headed to camp to rest up and get some food. It had been a fun day and I was excited for what tomorrow will bring. With only one and a half days left, I can't believe I'll be home soon. Tomorrow is a beautiful stretch and I am looking forward to getting back out on the cliffs.