Day 43: 600 miles down

Start: Durdle Door

Finish: Acton

Miles: 17

Total miles: 605

This morning we left camp and headed to Lulworth. It was a perfect time to arrive, the crowds hadn't yet descended onto the village making for a peaceful morning. After a caffeine fix, we headed to Lulworth Cove where the path follows the pebble beach, curving around the iconic horseshoe shape. This secluded pocket of the Jurassic Coast is the perfect insight into the complex geology of the area, with surrounding landforms such as Stair Hole. From the beach, the path climbs a series of steep steps to regain the cliff. This land forms part of the Lulworth Ranges walks, which are often closed due to military activity. I was happy to have timed my itinerary to ensure this section was open, saving a lengthy detour. After a gentle start it wasn't long before we were facing another intimidating hill, lined with a series of high steps. We took our time climbing to the top and appreciated the stunning views of the white cliffs and calm seas. We met a man who was running up and down the steps, training for going to the Alps. The section is the perfect training ground for adventures, with limitless opportunities to build stamina and strength in a beautiful setting. The hills persisted and Emily had managed to resist the temptation to slide down on her bum, until we reached a particularly steep descent with initially no steps to assist. Unable to stay standing, she resumed her seated position to begin simultaneously sliding down and hysterically laughing, with the occasional gasp as her speed picked up. Her second and final pair of leggings were now ripped, she would just have to embrace this look for the reminder of the trip.

We cut inland to visit the abandoned village of Tyneham, evacuated in 1943 as the land was occupied for military training. The villagers never returned and the land still has strong military presence. I knew this would be the perfect place to provide Emily with a brief respite from the hills. She read every sign and was fascinated by the history of the buildings, I knew she'd enjoy this and it was worth the detour. From here we continued inland to the village of Kimmeridge which would be our only opportunity to refuel and rehydrate on this remote stretch. The footpath to the cafe was overgrown and we had to hack our way through dense brambles. Emily emerged with several scratches up her arms and legs, she looked like an adventurer now.

After lunch we regained the path and met two men heading in the opposite direction on the path. They were so friendly and outgoing, when I told them I had almost completed the path they shook my hand and hugged me. Jannie had completed the entire route himself previously, but the Lulworth Ranges has been closed so he was returning with his friend Ben to finish this section. Ben was carrying a military style bergan, loaded with 5 litres of water and lots of food. Jannie joked that Ben was training for the Kalahari desert. As all hikers inevitably do, me and Jannie gravitated to the conversation of gear - bonding over having the same MSR tent. Emily and Ben agreed we were speaking another language as we listed brand names and tent designs. Ben said he was a rookie to this, referring to his tent as a sandwich bag that could blow off the cliffs. We laughed lots and the conversation really broke up the afternoon miles, we wished each other luck and went our separate ways.

Emily grew tired during the final miles, her hip and legs aching. Climbing over every style became an ordeal, but she maintained positivity and laughed through the pain. There were times where she joked, "Go on without me" and resigned herself to living out on the cliffs, sprawled on the ground. Considering this was her first hiking pursuit, I was impressed with how she'd coped and maintained a positive attitude throughout. Her stubbornness and ability to maintain a cheerful outlook when being scratched by brambles, sliding down hills or climbing endless steep cliffs pulled her through. She should be so proud of this achievement. But here's Emily's account of the last couple of days:

"Firstly, I need to say how insane Amy is. This has been two of the toughest days I've ever experienced. I do not know how Amy has had the perseverence and physical strength to keep going. She is incredible.

I have never done anything like this before and it's been completely out of my comfort zone. It has certainly been a test of endurance which can only be beaten with a positive attitude which I hope (between the exasperations of "ANOTHER HILL!?") I have managed. There's definitely been some scary times like walking down extremely steep hills with no handrail or steps for guidance, but that's where I created "grass tobogganing" so I can't complain, although the holes in my leggings will.

The first day was Amy's version of easing me in, the first part was very flat with a couple of small hills and I was lured into a false sense of security. By the end of the day I was a panting mess but the beautiful views of the coast line certainly made it worthwhile.

Camping has never been my forte, who knew roll mats existed?! But I felt safe and snug sharing a tent with the Princess of the outdoors.

Yesterday was crazy. Amy and I set off at 8am and spent 10 and a half hours walking, although I am sure she would have been a lot quicker if she was on her own. Walking through Tyneham was incredible, a village frozen in the past. As a big history lover, I was very glad that Amy took us on a minor detour there. We then had an arduous walk to Kimmeridge where we went through a short cut and I was thoroughly attacked by brambles, but I think its given me the "hiker look", in addition to the sun burn. Lunch seemed like a mirage after miles and miles of hills but luckily it was real and probably the best meal I've ever eaten, as well as about 5 jugs of water. There were times where I didn't think I could go on to the point I told Amy that I had accepted my fate and would now be living as a troll on the step we had taken a quick respite on, demanding a litre of water as a toll from passersby. Luckily she made me get up and continue otherwise I would still be there. The highlight of the day was meeting a man who told us his tent was a sandwich bag.

I am surprised as how much Amy and I have laughed through the last couple of days, and not just through hysteria. She is the perfect companion and guide for an adventure with her incredibly positive attitude, vast knowledge of the outdoors, and determination. She has certainly looked after me in times of need, for example when I fell face first on a steep descending hill, she took my huge bag and ran down to the bottom with me following on my bum with both hiking sticks propelling me forward. Anyone watching this ordeal would have assumed she had stolen my bag and I was frantically chasing after her. I am very grateful to Amy for inviting me on this adventure with her, for pushing me out of my comfort zone and spending the last 3 days of her trip with me.

Amy assures me that today will be a casual 10 miles with the promise of food at the end. I'm not sure I would go as far to say that I will miss this intinerant lifestyle, but I know that I will certainly be a lot more grateful for no longer having to hunt for coffee and my bed tonight."

Today was the perfect final full day of my trip. Full of fun, challenge and beautiful scenery. The Dorset Jurassic Coast has always captivated me ever since moving to the South Coast and was ultimately responsible for me discovering the South West Coast Path. I'm sure my previous adventures out on these cliffs planted the seed for me completing the whole path, so it was fitting to begin to conclude my adventure here. Tomorrow I will walk my final stretch and return home. My thoughts towards my journey concluding are mixed and complex. Although I am excited to return to familiarity and comfort, as I wistfully reflect on my adventure I feel a little sad that the path will end tomorrow. But also deeply satisfied and happy that I've outlasted the trail and achieved my goal. But there's still a few more miles to make the most of yet and I have no doubt that the coastal path will continue to deliver for the final stretch.