Day 5: Whales and more mountains

Location: Fredvang

Mountains: Volandstinden and Nesfjellet

The morning started with a short drive over to Fredvang. Today's objective began with the ascent of a mountain called Volandstinden followed by the adjacent peak of Nesfjellet. On the drive there, we spotted a whale fin bobbing up and down in the water of the fjord. As I looked out I could see 5 or maybe 6 fins and the driver told us they were orcas, which are commonly seen in this area. Although I only saw the fins, I was so happy to have my first ever whale sighting and enjoyed seeing them move around the harbour finding their breakfast. I've been in many places where I've stared longingly at bodies of water waiting for the appearance of whales so to finally see some felt like a very positive start to the day.

We arrived at the base of the mountain and began the first ascent. The land here was typical of Arctic tundra, the ground carpeted with spongy mosses and lichen. Wild orchids and cotton grass were scattered around the peat bogs. The route to the first summit did not have an official trail, instead you navigate through boulder fields and steep inclines, choosing the safest most viable route. The boulders were large and some were unstable to step on, I took my time and hopped between them, slowly gaining height. In time you adapt to this terrain and get a feel for where to place your feet and this allows you to grow in confidence and pace.

After more clambering over boulders and scrambling, the summit lay ahead. The cloud was descending rapidly but I made it in time to have a slight view across the fjord and to appreciate the spectacular panoramic view of the area. Following this, we descended to the shoulder of the mountain for lunch where we ate on a sheltered patch of land surrounded by Arctic berries, before setting our sights on the second ascent.

The second summit was a little more technical but luckily ascended from the same mountain shoulder, so the majority of the elevation had already been gained. The route passed through a challenging boulder field and then followed a rough, exposed path that curved around to the summit. My legs felt a little wobbly as I looked down at the sheer drop down the sharp rock face, but gave myself a little pep talk and took a deep breath and kept moving forward. The path was a little slippy and in parts extremely steep, it took all the power in my legs to stride forward and prevent sliding backwards. Finally I reached the summit after a sketchy balance along a narrow ridge. I clung onto a stable rock and admired the view ahead, trying to avoid looking down. It was so rewarding to see the height I'd climbed above the fjords and admire the neighbouring summits.

The mountains on Lofoten are not high compared to other European peaks, but they are steep and follow undefined, challenging routes. Up here, in the Arctic, the conditions are wild and unforgiving, which elevates the adventure. Today's summits were hard but extremely rewarding. I will always try to encounter new challenges, as just because something is difficult, it doesn’t necessarily label it as a negative situation. Ultimately these challenging moments will prove to be a source of real strength for future adventures, showing you that you can endure and overcome. Each low point becomes the bar to measure future challenges against. There’s a healthy limit to this mind-set, if you challenge yourself too much and undertake something that is beyond your current ability, you experience the hardship without the growth. For me, the most rewarding adventures are the ones where the enjoyment balances the challenge and these mountains today helped me achieve this.

On the descent, the sun burnt through the clouds revealing emerald and turquoise waters. I glanced back up at the peaks I'd summited and smiled. The accommodation had a jacuzzi that faced the summits from today so I decided this would be a great way to pass the time before dinner! I turned on the bubbles, had a cold local beer and admired the view of the harbour and mountains. It was nice to relax, recover and actually do something that can justify me calling this trip a "holiday". My legs may be achey, my hands cut and calloused from gripping the rock tightly and my feet sore but I couldn't have been happier as I smiled and gazed up at those peaks knowing I'd been on their summits.