Day 6: Ryten summit and Kvalvika beach

Location: Fredvang

Mountain: Ryten

The morning began with the summit of Ryten, the base was only a short approach from the accommodation. The route followed a grassy ascent that switch-backed higher and higher which had a manageable incline. As I walked higher, the cloud grew thicker until I was essentially walking through them. The visibility was poor, only able to see a few metres up ahead. The route then turned into a series of boulders which led to the summit. The cloud was so dense that it was impossible to have any view, which was unfortunate but I still enjoyed the climb regardless. Following the summit we descended a sharp decline lined with boulders of all shapes and sizes. It was a challenging but fun route, I enjoyed choosing which boulders to hop over and really got into a rhythm which helped me pick in the pace. At the base of the descent was Kvalvika beach.

Kvalvika beach is an isolated idyllic bay and was the setting for the Norwegian outdoor documentary "Nordfor Sola" translated to "North of the sun". Two Norwegian surfers documented nine cold months living on this Arctic beach. It follows their journey in this remote land where they created a temporary home from salvaged driftwood that washes up on this beach from Siberia. Their hut is still standing and is free for anyone to stay in on a first come first serve basis. The door was very low and the inside was small but cosy. A couple of the men in the group joked that it was "a perfect house for Amy". I imagined staying here in the depths of winter. Being free to wander in the snow, gazing up at the northern lights while clutching a warm cup of tea, getting cosy to shelter from the winter storms and the challenge of keeping warm in sub-zero temperatures. Ultimately experiencing the serenity of the remoteness in an icy Arctic haven. Somehow I think I'll be back here one winter.

After some time eating lunch and relaxing on the beach, we took a route that ascended sharply above the beach passing over yet another boulder field. The cloud still hung low over the peaks, the surrounding summits remained out of view. The descent eventually led back down to the sea on the opposite side of the ridge. I spent the remainder of the afternoon foraging for mussels, sea urchins and sea snails to prepare before dinner. I learnt that you can eat the mussels raw as the waters are so clean here. I dangled off the edge of a jetty to pick some from the boulders, trying my hardest not to fall in the icy waters and then used a knife to open the shell to cut out the meat, it tasted really fresh.

The evening was a relaxing one spent chatting and laughing, preparing food and having an amazing dinner with all the foraged seafood and locally caught fish. After dinner I opted for another go in the jacuzzi, I was getting slowly more accustomed to the art of relaxing. I felt I could justify it after reaching my 5th summit of the week! Tomorrow will be my final day on the Lofoten islands before returning to mainland Norway. I went to bed satisfied and happy with my adventures so far and was looking forward to my final day.