Day 12: Castles and community

Start: Trethevy

End: Polzeath

Miles: 17

Total miles: 161

After another night of deep sleep, I got myself organised ready for another big push. The first couple of miles took me around rocky outcrops and over a series of steep climbs using steps. After just under an hour I arrived at Tintagel castle, the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. I've been here before, but approaching this dramatic section of coast on foot enhanced the experience. I stopped at the cafe and had a cup of tea with Andy, who is completing a section of the path over a 3 week period. We chatted about the usual topics; pack weight, dehydrated meals and daily miles before he pushed up the next hill. He films as he goes, often placing his tripod down to video himself walking away, then has to retrace his steps. I admired his commitment as I knew this would account to many extra steps.

Following this I pushed on and met with Olly, a tree surgeon out here completing the Bude to Newquay section. We climbed a number of ascents and looked back to see how far Tintagel looked in the distance. We talked about our past adventures and future hiking aspirations, our conversations made the morning miles go quickly. It felt like no time before we were in Port Issac. Both Olly and Andy decided to catch a bus to the campsites in Polzeath. They'll catch the bus back to Port Issac tomorrow to complete the stretch they will miss. I knew I had more left in the tank and I could tackle more hills, so pushed on to Polzeath.

Last night and today got me thinking about the community aspect of long distance hiking trails. I've met many like minded people so far on my trip all from different walks of life. Some section hike the path, some attempt the whole route. Some stay in hotels while others opt for campsites or wild camping. But what binds us all is for one reason or another we are all drawn towards the path. Having this common ground with people instantly builds a connection and a strong sense of community that is often rare to find in today's world. I know when I see my fellow hikers with their big packs and sore feet exactly what they are going through. We support each other through the daily challenges and that makes each day a little easier.

As I continued up a steep set of stairs beyond Port Issac, I begun to understand why Olly and Andy opted for the bus. But I pushed forward, motivated by the fact that the next days will be easier. I approach my second castle of the day, Doyden Castle. It was in a prominent position on the cliff and the coast path curved behind it. My feet began to complain as I approached Polzeath, becoming sore and I could tell the early stages of blisters were appearing. I collapsed on my roll mat when I arrived at camp, happy I'd pushed further. But exhausted. Since Monday I've walked 52 miles and climbed over 4000m. I'm happy with this achievement but even happier to know that the next days are shorter and with less elevation.