Day 14: Phase 2 completed

Start: Treyarnon

End: Newquay

Miles: 13

Total miles: 189

Last night couldn't have been more of a contrast from the previous night. I lit my stove to boil my water for my meal, the gas provided heat for about 30 seconds then fizzled out. Luckily I knew I was getting more in Newquay, but not being able to make my food was demoralising after a long day. I got by with snacks that I'd bought from a shop earlier that day and hid in my tent away from the over confident seaguls. I told myself that I'd be in Newquay soon and could have a huge dinner to make up for this disappointment. Even though I don't exactly enthuse over a dehydrated meal, after a long day out on the cliffs I'd take anything.

The morning started with a series of little headlands, hidden coves and was very scenic in the sun. I arrived at Bedruthan steps, a popular area with a stone paved path leading to a beautiful beach. There were views of rugged stacks that had become isolated from the cliffs. I walked past a man and smiled, which prompted him to ask me a series of questions. Where are you camping? What brand is your tent? What are you daily miles? Are you on your own? I was happy he was interested and enjoyed answering his questions, but it did exhaust me a little.

The heat made what would have been a fairly easily stroll over cliff tops, much harder work. There's no shelter or shade out there, it's very exposed and the sun was ahead of me beating down. Come early afternoon when Newquay came into view, my feet were tired and I was irritated by the heat. A plane from Newquay Airport flew past and I imagined it would be full of holiday makers flying somewhere to put their feet up for a week. I began to briefly question my life choices. But I must do this for a reason. I've been here before; tired, aching, overheating but I always come back for more.

On my approach to town I stopped for a little rest and a couple came to speak to me. They asked me what I was searching for while I was out here doing this. I thought this was a very loaded question to ask me casually in my exhausted state. They then proceeded to hand me religious leaflets and I realised they were Jehovah's Witnesses. I declined the leaflets saying that I couldn't afford any extra weight in my bag. They were sure reading them would be an easier way of finding what I was searching for. Unless it would miraculously heal my blisters, I was not interested. I arrived in Newquay and checked into my hotel to escape the heat. This marks the end of phase 2, a challenging stretch from Hartland to here. This was 81 miles and 6250m of elevation climbed in 5 days, just shy of climbing Ben Nevis each day. I was ready for a rest and to refuel with a big meal. I'm almost at the 200 mile mark now and feel proud that I've made it this far. The furthest I've ever been on foot. I'm eating in the hotel restaurant tonight. The thought of browsing a menu and not just selecting the first meal I pull out my pack is beyond exciting. Then after that a restful night's sleep in a bed, before setting my sights on Penzance.