Day 20: End of phase 3

Start: Porthcurno

End: Penzance

Miles: 11

Total: 273

This morning we picked up the path again after a lovely stay at a farm campsite. The day started off on a relatively easy stretch, meandering around headlands with views out to a white lighthouse. As we descended down a steep series of steps, we spotted two seals floating in the bay. They looked relaxed and like they didn't have a care in the world. The sea looked inviting and I wished I was floating with them. The trail became more rocky, with large boulders to climb over and steep drops down to the sea. We spoke with a man on holiday who was exploring the coast, I told him my plan and he said he'd met someone else the previous day completing the whole path. I thought it must be Greg, who I met back on Exmoor - I didn't know if he'd been ahead or behind me these last weeks. As we arrived at Lamorna Cove, we had a rest and it was the perfect setting for my first cream tea of this trip.

As I was drinking my tea, I heard a familiar voice chatting to another man. It was Greg! I last saw him in Combe Martin after the Hangman hills, 17 days ago. He'd grown a beard in that time and looked more weathered. He gave me a huge smile and pointed at me saying 'Amy!' It felt like I was greeting an old friend. I asked him how he had found it so far. He shook his head, saying it had been a challenge. He'd had a fall on the rocks, shattering his trekking pole and we spoke of the endless hills. It's so lovely to speak with someone who's feet have travelled the same path. He was meeting his brother at the cafe and had some of his old army mates joining him too, this would give him a boost. Solitude can be tough. He'll take a rest with his family a little beyond Penzance but I'm sure I'll catch up with him in the coming days.

After this, we continued onto Mousehole. A quaint old fishing village, busy with visiting tourists. The route then followed the road to Newlyn, a busy harbour packed with fishing vessels, tangled nets with the smell of fish emanating from a number of buildings. After a motivational ice cream, Penzance was in our sights. This marks the end of phase 3 and also the beginning of my first full rest period. I will rest here until Saturday when I'll begin phase 4. I'll begin to plan the next stages tomorrow but tonight is just about perusing menus, satisfying all my food desires and sleeping.