Day 26: Fires on the coast path

Start: Maenporth

End: Portloe

Miles: 17

Total miles: 345

This morning I left camp and headed into Falmouth where I had breakfast and leeched off the cafes electricity to recharge my phone and powerpack. I then needed to catch two ferries, firstly to St Mawes then onto Place. The ferry journeys were quick and easy, in no time I'd picked up the path on the other side of river. The route was easy towards the village of Portscatho, rolling fields with gentle undulation. A stark contrast from what I'd walked in North Cornwall.

When I left the village, the path entered a small tree lined stretch with a series of steps heading downhill. As I walked, I noticed something low to the ground coming towards me. I assumed it was a dog with the owner lagging behind. But it was a badger! Wandering towards me up the steps, on the coastal path. I've always wanted to see a badger, but imagined the encounter a little differently. I thought I'd be wild camping in a forest in the evening under a tarp and spot one snuffling around. Not see one in broad daylight wandering on a public footpath. We startled each other and he headed through a gap in the trees. I was delighted to see this badger and this encounter makes the cut to my favourite moments so far.

In the afternoon I headed towards Nare Head, a prominent headland with a rugged ascent to the top. I could smell smoke in the air. Up ahead, I noticed the vegetation was no longer green but black and there was smoke rising from the cliff. It was on fire. In the distance I could see the firemen had already arrived and had the blaze under control, but were still using hoses. The fire had spread through a significant section of the gorse and I later read the same was happening at Zennor, where I'd passed through a week ago. The fire encompassed the coastal path so I studied my map, retraced my steps and took an inland footpath to divert away from the fire.

When I arrived at camp, the man at reception asked me where I'd come from. I told him I started just before Falmouth. He showed me where to pitch my tent and made me a cup of tea. I'm learning that a good reason to attempt to coastal path solo, is the amount of free cups of tea I'm getting! Tomorrow I'll head to Mevagissey, which will mark the end of phase 4. It doesn't feel that long ago since I crossed the border from Devon and knew I had 300 miles of Cornish Coast ahead of me. But here I am, with only 5 days remaining in Cornwall. The distance felt a little overwhelming when I first embarked on my adventure. But week by week, day by day, mile by mile Poole gets that little bit closer.