Day 27: End of phase 4

Start: Portloe

End: Mevagissey

Miles: 15

Total miles: 360

I woke up this morning after a patchy night's sleep, I knew I was getting a bed tonight so I was eager to complete the miles. As I packed my tent away, a fellow camper chatted with me. He asked me the usual questions; how many miles do you do a day? How long will it take you? Are you okay doing this alone? This is one of the most common questions I get asked.

Solo long-distance hiking relies on you being sufficiently prepared, comfortable with solitude and reliant on your own abilities. Although I am having company along sections of the path, the majority of days I am alone. Which I don't mind. I would much rather pursue my adventures solo then wait for someone's else's schedule and ambitions to align. I find I connect with people on the way, walk sections with fellow hikers and have conversations with holiday makers and locals. Being alone also allows me to really appreciate the company of people who will visit me out here.

Today's walk was another gentle stretch. Although the elevation was still 900m, it was spread evenly and there were no significantly steep climbs. This terrain allows me to make faster progress and I'd completed my miles by early afternoon. The route passed Caerhays Castle before climbing to Dodman Point. The path was quiet today, only seeing my first person a few hours into the day once I reached Gorran Haven harbour.

By early afternoon I'd reached Portmellon, a village that sprawled into Mevagissey. I'm staying above a restaurant in town, so I asked them to store my bag while I wandered around the streets of Mevagissey. I felt so light and free without my pack, but also like I was missing part of my body. It was lovely to be able to browse the shops without thinking I'd knock everything off the shelves with my pack. Mevagissey is a lovely place. Colourful fishing boats in the harbour and an array of independent shops, I was happy to arrive here before the weekend as it wasn't too busy. I have now finished phase 4 which took me from Penzance to here, 360 miles from Minehead. My body feels good, conditioned and adapted to this lifestyle now. My favourite aspect of my journey so far is the freedom. I walk, I eat and I sleep. No other tasks or obligations are required, it's a beautifully simplistic way of life which I feel privileged to be able to experience for a summer. Starting tomorrow, I'll begin to finish the miles of Cornwall and return to Devon to complete the south coast. But before that, I'll go searching for a big dinner to refuel and have a restful night's sleep in a bed.