Day 29: Cows, wind and rain

Start: Polmear

End: Looe

Miles: 17

Total miles: 390

It was raining lightly in the morning so my tent was wet when I packed it away, adding to the weight of my pack. After leaving my campsite, I caught the ferry from Fowey to Polruan. From here, the route resembled a rollercoaster and was very remote, not seeing a single person until I reached the village of Polperro. On route I came across a group of cows grazing the vegetation alongside the path. They were big and intimidating and as a group they completely obstructed the narrow path. To the left of the cows was a sharp ascent blocked by a hedge and to the right a gentle descent to the sea, lined with thick bracken and brambles. I edged forward to assess the cow's reaction. They didn't move. I took one more step and one of the cows rushed onwards, overtaking some of the group. This reaction seemed to annoy one of the other cows and it huffed and started heading towards me at a fair pace. The only option was to head into the thick brambles and bracken out of the way of the cows. I waded through, up to my shoulders getting thoroughly scratched but this was better than taking on a group of cows this size. I eventually was able to rejoin the path and once the cows were out of sight, I sat on my pack and let the adrenaline dissipate and my heart rate stabilise. With the exception of several thorn scratches, I was unscathed. But wished to not have another encounter like this.

Eventually I arrived to Polperro after what felt like a very long 6 miles of hills and step climbing. I met Lee in a pub where I had lunch, another hiker completing sections of the path. I asked him how he negotiated the cows. He said he banged his trekking poles onto the path and shouted at them and they moved to the right. Maybe I should have been braver. But at the time, I did not feel brave. Lee was a 6 foot something man who worked in security, I'm not sure with my stature adopting his approach would have had the same effect. From Polperro, I continued onto Looe where I camped just beyond town. It was a windy rainy night so after dinner, I dived in my tent and arranged myself horizontally. The tent rattled loudly in the strong gusts and rain hammered down. I desperately tried not to think of my bed at home, this would not help matters. Inevitably, my mind wandered to stable buildings with roofs, mattresses and pillows. But I had none of that here, so I pulled my sleeping bag over my head and settled in for what would surely be a miserable night. I tried put a positive spin on the day, maybe I'll find one in time. All I could do is wish for less cows, less wind and for the night to be over.