Day 3: The Hangman Hills

Start: Lynmouth

End: Watermouth

Miles: 15

Total miles: 38

I was awoken abruptly this morning with the sound of rain hammering on my tent. I lay awake for a while, nestled down into my sleeping bag and watching the rain drops drip down my tent. After much contemplation, I decided the sun wasn't making an appearance so I battled with my tent in the wind and rain, frantically trying to keep everything dry. Lynmouth still wasn't awake when I wondered down to the harbour, shattering my hope for a morning cup of tea. As I left town a waymarker informed me I was 609 miles away from Poole, I'm unsure if this was motivating or demoralising. The path ascended above town towards the Valley of rocks, a jaggered rocky outcrop on the Exmoor coastline. The views were stunning but the persistent rain and exposed path made me push on.

I let discipline take the driving seat this morning to get me through the initial hills in the high wind and rain. But come late morning the sun had burnt through the clouds and I started to dry off. The ominous clouds continued to threaten rain in the distance, so I decided to stay fully waterproofed. The trail descended down to Heddon's mouth, only to immediately regain the elevation. The route felt remote today, only sharing the trail with a handful of rabbits and people. The few people I met were friendly and encouraging.

In the early afternoon Great Hangman appeared, the highest point on the whole of the coastal path. I steadily climbed a series of switch backs to the summit, using my hiking pole to propell me forward and take the pressure off my legs. The view from the top was stunning and I was happy the skies had cleared. After my descent, the next peak of Little Hangman was in the distance. I was delighted to check my map and see this was an optional summit and the coastal path curved to the left, avoiding the ascent. I decided to head straight into Combe Martin, I reasoned with myself that I had done enough and had enough ahead of me without adding optional ascents into the agenda. Combe Martin looked like the perfect place to refuel and rehydrate, I did exactly that - managing to make up for my lack of tea this morning.

From here I'll push a little further to my campsite, just outside of Combe Martin. Today lived up to it's reputation of being one of the toughest sections of the entire route. The elevation today was the equivalent of climbing Ben Nevis, spread across multiple steep ascents. This coupled with the harsh weather delivered that sense of challenge that blooms when you enter the blank spaces beyond your comfort zone. As brutal and relentless as the hills of Exmoor have been, I'm on the other side of them now and better for it.