Day 33: Hope and Soar Mill Cove

Start: Bigbury-on-sea

End: Salcombe

Miles: 17

Total miles: 450

Today started with another river to cross, it was too high to wade through and I knew there was an on demand ferry service. When I arrived there was no one around, just a signpost and a large bell. The post told me to ring the bell and wave in the direction of the small boathouse across the river. I followed the instructions and waited. In a matter of seconds I could see a man heading across the river in a boat, one hand steering and the other holding a mug of tea. He whistled over to me and pointed to where I should wait. I sat next to his dog who was wearing a bright orange life jacket. The crossing was short but we had time to chat about all the adventurers he'd met who needed to cross the river. A couple of weeks back he'd met the man I had met, walking the whole UK coast. He predicted that I was on "day thirty something" of the path, telling me he can always tell who is completing the whole thing. Once we got to the other side, he pointed out that the cliff had collapsed destroying the route to regain the path. But he'd had scaffolding built over the roof of one of the small boathouses to access the path. I climbed up a series of ramps and platforms on the scaffolding to rejoin the path. I found this section so fun and really appreciated the effort to join every section of the coast path despite the rivers and crumbling cliffs.

From here the path was gentle to Hope Cove and I made quick progress, so I decided to take a long lunch in a pub in the village. I met a couple at lunch completing a section of the path from Plymouth to Brixham. Their bags were huge and apparently they'd already stripped back what they were carrying. From here I climbed up to Bolt Tail, I knew this would be the most significant hill of the day due to the squashed up contour lines on my map. But the hills don't phase me at this point. If I'm not used to them after over a month of daily hill climbing, I was never going to be. Following Bolt Tail, the path became a little more rugged and remote. The scenery reminded me of Dartmoor, heathland with rocks protruding from the ground. A sign warned me of the remnants of another cliff fire up ahead. The route had been reopened and the fire had been put out but the charred, blackened vegetation still smoked heavily. The smoke was thick and made me cough, so I'll pulled my top over my mouth and nose and hurried along.

The route then descended to the second cove of the day, Soar Mill Cove. There was a hotel nearby so the beach was busy with holiday makers. A group of cows grazed but they were smaller and fluffier than the ones I'd encountered a few days back. They were much more mild mannered and I was happy to share the path with them. From here I carried onto camp where I'll rest up before continuing with the next stretch of the Devonshire coastline. I want to make the most of the next couple of days as soon beyond here I'll be entering the English Riveria stretch. Bustling coastal towns, heaving with people visiting for the summer. The miles seem to be really accelerating now as I move eastwards on the South Coast. It's strange to think that this time next week I'll be back in Dorset, completing the final county. With just 11 days between me and Poole, the end is finally beginning to feel reachable.