Day 37: 500 miles down

Start: Paignton

Finish: Teignmouth

Miles: 15

Total miles: 505

My stay in Paignton last night was interesting. A far cry from the quaint fishing villages that have dominated most of the route. I headed to the highstreet in search of dinner. The street was lined with pubs with groups of loud, rowdy men in football shirts clutching pints. One of them slurred something undiscernable at me and tried putting his arm around me, I swerved out the way. I managed to find a quiet Italian restaurant away from the chaos. The waitor told me that during lockdown he decided to complete some of the coastal path. He left his home in Brixham, walked 10 miles over a hilly stretch and then got the bus home. "There's easier ways to lose weight without doing my knees in", he told me. I agreed. A friendly waitress pulled me to the side on the way out, telling me to not walk alone through town early in the morning. She spoke of a recent event involving a girl walking alone and getting into trouble. It was clear the town had it's issues and was a little rough around the edges. Everywhere has felt so safe so far but I took her advice on board and used it as an excuse to have a longer morning in bed.

Last night I received a text from a friend I'd met a few days back called Lena. Her and her partner James were doing a 6 day stretch of the path. She text to say, "Bumped into a bloke who started with you in Minehead. He said you walk real fast". That must be Greg who I last saw on day 17! He must be only a day or so behind, hopefully I'll see him over the next days. Today I'd continue my tour of the English Riviera. I was interested to see how Torquay would compare to Paignton. I didn't have high hopes. I left Paignton at around 9.30am, a couple of men sat outside a pub had already started on the pints. I felt revitalised this morning, the night in a bed and the fresh food had really boosted my energy.

The walk to Torquay was flat, along promenades and roads. Torquay was busy when I arrived, the amusements and arcades were loud and I rushed through. The town made me miss my days in North Cornwall when it was just me, the odd kestrel or seal and occasional walker. After Torquay, the path returned to it's default state of constant elevation gain. Climbing steps through wooded slopes up on the cliffs. I enjoyed this section, being in the trees and hopping over gnarled roots. Up head there was a clearing in the trees revealing the next stretch of coastline. The rocks in the distance transitioned to a vibrant rusty colour, iconic of the East Devon cliffs and marking the beginning of the Jurassic Coast. I could see so far, possibly some of the coastline I could see belonged to Dorset.

Once I arrived at Shaldon, it was a short ferry ride across the river to Teignmouth where I'll stay the night. I have now walked over 500 miles of the coast. Through Somerset, North Devon, Cornwall and South Devon. With just over 100 miles to go, it will now only take me a week to complete the path. I am looking forward to the next days, to walk the cliffs of East Devon and Dorset. I know there's some steep climbs, long days and challenges up ahead. But I am excited. I'm ready to make the most of my final week out here and finish what I set out to do. Walk home from Minehead.