Day 4: An easier day

Start: Watermouth

End: Mortehoe

Miles: 12

Total miles: 50

After my tough day yesterday, I stayed at a lovely campsite that the coastal path goes right through. It felt nice not having to deviate from the route but still get a warm shower. I met a lovely couple on a caravan holiday who made me a cup of tea once my tent was pitched. I bumped into Greg, a fellow coast path hiker who pitched opposite me. He told me earlier in the day that he was wild camping the entire route, but it seems the temptation of a warm shower quickly changed his plans. The night was still and dry, so sleep came easily.

It's strange to think that it is only day 4. I have adjusted well to this new way of life. My days have become governed by the cycle of the sun; I wake up when it’s light, I walk until my legs get too tired and go to sleep when it gets dark. The date and time have become insignificant and I only need to think about my basic physiological needs; food, water and shelter. Hiking encourages me to live in the moment, it’s too daunting to look beyond the current mile and a waste of energy to review the previous ones. All that is required of me is the willingness to walk.

After the challenge of Exmoor, the next days offer a brief respite in the way of elevation gain. The morning began with a meandering path out of Watermouth and it wasn't long before Ilfracombe came into view. This would be my morning stop to source a tea and a place to resupply my food. What was planned to be a fleeting visit took up most of my morning as I chatted to locals in a cafe and sat on a very comfy sofa.

I eventually pushed on towards Bull Point lighthouse and chatted to Nigel on the way, another coastal path hiker. His orginal plan was to complete the entire route in an ambitious 35 days. But after what Exmoor threw at us, he reassessed and reduced his trip to 200 miles. This is his first ever hiking trip carrying all the gear, so he's definitely thrown himself into the deep end. I pushed on, but I'm sure I'll see more of him in the coming days. Once I arrived at the lighthouse, I diverted inland to a campsite. I was eager to pitch before the upcoming onslaught of high wind and rain.

Today felt much easier, there was still 1000m elevation gain but the hills were less gruelling or maybe I'm adapting. My guide book tells me tomorrow is even easier, which I'm happy about as I don't forsee getting much sleep in these conditions. I'm predicting a tent bound evening, so let's see if it survives this wind.