Day 25: Half way

Start: Coverack

End: Maenporth

Miles: 17

Total miles: 328

I left Coverack early as I knew I had a long, complicated day ahead of me with rivers on route that needed crossing. There were a few fisherman organising their gear in the harbour and as I left town there were a couple of seals bobbing around in the water. The trail entered a wooded section and the skies grew darker. From here, the route became devoid of life and the skies began to rumble with thunder. Ahead were multiple red 'Danger' signs as the route moved around a disused quarry. This section felt very eerie. The high barbed wire fences, the old quarry buildings all accompanied by the flashes of lightening and crashes of thunder. I hurried along, eager to get off this stretch.

I continued on the route which diverted inland as the next section of the quarry was impassable. The heavens then opened and heavy rain began pouring down while the thunder and lightening persisted. The sky was dark with an orange glow on the horizon and I saw forks of lightening strike the sea. I arrived at Porthallow, the official half way point on the route. With Minehead 315 miles behind me and Poole 315 miles ahead. A signpost informed me of this and I stood reading it, with wet feet and rain dripping off my nose. Reaching the halfway point felt mildly underwhelming; there’s no reward waiting for me and no one was even awake to congratulate me. But I felt happy and contented that this is the furthest I have hiked in one go ever before. That’s enough for me. The thunder was growing louder and no cafes were open to hide in. All that remained to do is what I have become so accustomed to. Walk. 

As I reached Gillian creek, the tide was high making it unsafe to cross on foot. This meant a detour inland, I knew this would happen from the tide timetables but was secretly hoping I'd read them wrong. After a brief diversion I continued towards Helford where I found a cafe. I had a half way celebratory cream tea with a large pot of tea, this what just what I needed. I began to dry off as the sun appeared. When I arrived at the ferry to take me across to Helford Passage, it had just left. It was a small boat, only carrying a handful of people. The man driving the boat saw me and smiled, he turned the boat around telling me he wouldn't make me wait. I was so grateful and we chatted about the morning's storm while I stroked the golden retriever who sat next to me.

After the ferry journey, the route followed a series of rolling hills towards my camp for the night. Today really epitomised these kinds of adventures for me, the morning and afternoon feeling like totally different days. The dark thundery skies making way for sunshine and a gentle breeze. The old quarry that scarred the land making way for wild flower fields and quaint harbours. I reflected on getting halfway after the thunderstorm distracted me from the achievement earlier in the day. I looked back fondly on the days so far and reviewed the challenges I'd faced; the endless hills, heatwaves, rainstorms and diversions around rivers. But here I was over 315 miles from Minehead. After all, no adventure is worthwhile without a dash of adversity. This adventure is not about seeking instant gratification. But appreciating that the compilation of stunning scenery, encounters with nature, overcoming challenges, the highs, the lows and the people I meet along the way are together elevating this experience from just a walk to a lifelong memory.